Mount Shishapangma in Shigatse
Overview
Mount Shishapangma, with an elevation of 8,027 meters, ranks as the 14th highest of the 14 peaks over 8,000 meters in the world. It is the only 8,000-meter peak entirely within China, located in the central section of the Himalayas, approximately 120 kilometers southeast of Mount Everest. The peak lies entirely within the Nyalam County of Shigatse City, Tibet Autonomous Region, China. It was first summited by a Chinese mountaineering team in 1964.
On April 26, 2023, Chinese climber Dong Hongjuan (also known as Jingxue) reached the summit. Tragically, on October 7, 2023, an avalanche occurred on the mountain, resulting in two fatalities, two missing climbers, and one severe injury.
Environmental Features
The name “Shishapangma” in Tibetan translates to “severe cold, unpredictable weather.” As a modern glacial center of the Himalayas, it features a bizarre ice tower zone between 5,000 and 5,800 meters that resembles a “crystal ice garden.” This area is marked by numerous crevasses and potential avalanches, presenting significant challenges to climbers.
Geographic Location
Mount Shishapangma (Xixiabangma Peak) is positioned at 28°21′18″ N latitude and 85°46′44″ E longitude. It is one of the prominent peaks in the middle Himalayas, situated in southern Tibet, near the border with Nepal. The mountain consists of three sister peaks, the highest being Shishapangma itself.
The area around Shishapangma features significant glacial formations and snow cover, totaling approximately 6,000 square kilometers, particularly surrounding the peak. The northern slope is parallel to the 13.5-kilometer-long Yebokangla Glacier, while other notable glaciers include the Daqiu Glacier and the 16-kilometer-long Fuqu Glacier, which descends to the 4,550-meter treeline.
Climbing Difficulty
Climbing Shishapangma is fraught with challenges due to the unpredictable climate. The peak’s north side is notorious for its treacherous terrain and weather conditions. As of the end of 2003, only 201 climbers had successfully reached the summit, while 19 climbers have tragically lost their lives attempting to do so.
Climate Characteristics
The climate on Shishapangma shares similarities with that of Mount Everest. The rainy season typically lasts from early June to mid-September, characterized by heavy monsoon rains and frequent storms. The coldest months are from mid-November to mid-February, where temperatures can drop to -60°C. Optimal climbing conditions generally occur in April, May, and October, with good weather days being rare but possible.
Getting There
To reach Mount Shishapangma, you can drive from Lhasa along the China-Nepal Highway, passing through Jiangzi and Shigatse to Xiege’er, covering a distance of approximately 670 kilometers. From there, continue west for 138 kilometers to Dingri, then proceed south for another 50 kilometers along a rough road for about 20 kilometers to the north base camp at an elevation of 5,114 meters.
Climbing History
The first successful ascent of Shishapangma was made on May 2, 1964, by a Chinese team. Since then, climbers from various countries have attempted to summit the peak, with notable ascents including:
- In 1981, a New Zealand team climbed the eastern peak (Mola Menqing) at 7,703 meters.
- In 1987, Jerzy Kukuczka became the second climber in the world to summit all 14 of the world’s 8,000-meter peaks.
- In 2023, Dong Hongjuan summited, followed by a tragic avalanche incident later that year.
Travel Tips
When planning a trip to Mount Shishapangma, climbers should be aware of the high altitude and prepare for potential altitude sickness. Carrying supplemental oxygen is advisable. The best climbing windows are in spring and autumn, when weather conditions may be more favorable. Ensure to have proper gear, and consider joining an experienced expedition team for safety.
