The History of Chinese Tea

Origins of Chinese Tea History

The origins of Chinese tea history are a subject of much debate, with various theories such as the Pre-Qin, Western Han, and Three Kingdoms periods. Tea, as a cultural phenomenon, first emerged during the Two Jin and Northern Dynasties (两晋北朝), where it was predominantly enjoyed by scholars and intellectuals. After the Tang Dynasty, particularly during the Kaiyuan Era (开元), Chinese tea culture spread widely across all levels of society. The Tea Sage Lu Yu (陆羽) wrote the famous book The Classic of Tea (茶经), which played a major role in shaping tea culture. Additionally, the Shennong Bencao Jing (神农本草经) also contains references to tea.

Introduction to Tea History

China has a long and rich history of tea consumption, making it difficult to pinpoint the exact time when tea drinking began. However, scholars agree on a general time frame, with evidence suggesting that the habit of drinking tea spread from China to many parts of the world. As a result, many believe that tea was first introduced in China and later adopted in other regions, including India and Africa.

In 1823, a British military officer in India discovered wild tea trees, which led some to claim that tea originated in India, at least in part. However, China also has records of wild tea trees, especially in the southwestern regions like Yunnan (云南), and in places like Gansu (甘肃) and Hunan (湖南). Tea trees are an ancient plant and have been closely connected to human life for centuries.

Tea Origins and Disputes

In China, there are several theories about the origin of tea, with Xishuangbanna (西双版纳) in Yunnan being widely regarded as the birthplace of tea after extensive academic research. The earliest written record of cultivated tea trees dates back to the Western Han Dynasty (西汉), specifically to Mengshan tea (蒙山茶), as noted in the Sichuan Tongzhi (四川通志).

Overview of Tea History

China is the birthplace of tea, and throughout history, tea has been beloved by everyone from emperors and scholars to commoners and merchants. As the saying goes, “The seven daily necessities are firewood, rice, oil, salt, soy sauce, vinegar, and tea.” This highlights how deeply ingrained tea is in Chinese culture, from all social classes to ethnic minorities. For example, Tibetans enjoy butter tea (酥油茶), and Mongolians drink milk tea (奶茶).

The Emergence of Tea Culture

Tea culture began to take shape during the Two Jin and Northern Dynasties. Its origins can be traced back to the Han Dynasty (汉代), with formal records in Wang Bao’s (王褒) The Rites of the Southern States (僮约). The first tea enthusiasts were mostly scholars and intellectuals. In the history of Chinese literature, the Han Fu (汉赋) is prominently associated with figures like Sima Xiangru (司马相如) and Yang Xiong (杨雄), both early tea connoisseurs. Sima Xiangru’s work The Ordinary Poem (凡将篇) and Yang Xiong’s Fangyan (方言) both discuss tea, one from a medicinal perspective and the other from a literary standpoint.

During the Jin Dynasty (晋代), Zhang Zai (张载) wrote a poem about tea in Climbing the Chengdu Tower (登成都楼诗): “Ask Yang Zi’s house, I wish to see Changqing’s abode, the fragrant tea surpasses all others, its flavor spreading across the nine regions.”

Tea and Confucianism

Tea culture was initially influenced by Confucianism, particularly its emphasis on practical engagement with the world. During the Two Jin and Northern Dynasties, visionary politicians began promoting tea as a tool to encourage integrity and combat the prevailing culture of luxury. With the turbulence following the Wei and Jin Dynasties, intellectuals turned to the simplicity of tea to reflect a more humble lifestyle. They valued tea not only for its purity but also for its ability to keep the drinker clear-headed. This shift led to the growth of a tea culture, evolving from aristocrats to commoners.

Eventually, tea became a popular drink for many, particularly among those who favored lightness over excessive drinking. In the Bamboo Grove Seven Sages (竹林七贤) and other similar groups, scholars who often discussed lofty matters found that tea, unlike alcohol, allowed them to remain alert while enjoying their discussions. This created a larger community of tea enthusiasts, further embedding tea into Chinese cultural identity.

The Origin of Tea

The exact origin of tea drinking is still a matter of debate, with different theories including the Shennong Theory, Shang and Zhou Dynasties Theory, Western Han Theory, and Three Kingdoms Theory.

Shennong Theory

According to Lu Yu (陆羽), who referred to the Shennong Bencao Jing (神农本草经), “Long consumption of tea makes one strong and joyful,” tea drinking began in the era of Shennong (神农), an ancient leader of Chinese tribes. However, modern scholars believe that the Shennong Bencao Jing was compiled after the Han Dynasty, and the idea that tea drinking began in the primitive era remains more of a legend than a verified historical fact.

Shang and Zhou Dynasties Theory

In his work Huayang Guo Zhi (华阳国志), the historian Chang Qu (常璩) recorded that in the ancient Bazi Kingdom (巴子国), people cultivated and offered fragrant tea (香茗) as a tribute. This suggests that the ancient Ba people, living in the southern part of modern-day Shaanxi (陕西), were among the first to drink and cultivate tea, with a history dating back over 3,000 years.

Western Han Theory

Hao Yixing (郝懿行) in his work Zhengsu Wen (证俗文) noted that the custom of tea drinking started in the late Eastern Han Dynasty (东汉), though it had its early beginnings during the Western Han Dynasty (西汉). The Tongyue (僮约) by Wang Bao (王褒) mentions tea as a commodity in the Wu Yang region, present-day Pengshan (彭山) in Sichuan (四川), indicating that by 59 BCE, tea had been consumed in China for over two millennia.

Development Timeline of Tea in China

The history of tea drinking in China can be traced back to the Western Han Dynasty. During this period, tea was mainly consumed in Sichuan (四川), where it was first recorded by figures such as Sima Xiangru (司马相如), Wang Bao (王褒), and Yang Xiong (杨雄), all of whom were from Sichuan. Through trade and tribute, tea slowly spread to the political and cultural centers of Chang’an (长安) in Shaanxi (陕西), as well as to other northern regions such as Henan (河南).

Tea drinking, however, was limited to the elite class, with commoners rarely consuming tea. During the Three Kingdoms period, Wu (吴) court officials started to use tea to replace alcohol, as mentioned in the Records of the Three Kingdoms (三国志). Tea drinking among scholars and aristocrats continued to grow, especially in the southern regions during the Southern Dynasties (南朝).

Formation of Tea Culture

By the Tang Dynasty (唐代), particularly during the Kaiyuan Era (开元), tea drinking became more widespread in China. Zen Buddhism played a key role in popularizing tea, especially in the Northern Regions (北方), as Feng Yan (封演) noted in his Fengshi Wenjianji (封氏闻见记). The Kaiyuan period saw the rise of “tea ceremonies,” and tea became a drink of choice among the royal courts and intellectuals.

Tea consumption spread rapidly across China, with even distant regions and border areas adopting the practice. Lu Yu’s (陆羽) The Classic of Tea (茶经), written during the Tang Dynasty, mentions tea drinking as a widespread habit among the people, particularly in cities like Luoyang (洛阳), Chang’an (长安), and regions such as Hubei (湖北) and Shandong (山东).

Popularization of Tea

By the Song Dynasty (宋代), tea drinking had become an integral part of daily life in China. The Song poet Mei Yaochen (梅尧臣) wrote, “No matter their status, people from all walks of life drink tea daily, without exception.” Tea had become one of the “seven daily necessities,” which also included firewood, rice, oil, salt, soy sauce, and vinegar.

During the Song Dynasty, tea shops and tea houses became widespread, especially in urban areas such as Hangzhou (杭州), the capital of the Southern Song. Tea was not just a beverage but had become a social and cultural phenomenon. Wealthy families and intellectuals often gathered in tea houses, where tea was served with music and entertainment.

Tea played a central role in society, with tea ceremonies becoming a part of social gatherings. In the Southern Song capital, Lin’an (临安), tea houses flourished and played a significant role in social life. Tea was even used as a form of gift-giving and as a ritualistic offering. Tea had permeated every layer of society, from the aristocracy to the common people.

Through centuries of development, tea drinking in China evolved from a rare commodity to an essential part of daily life and culture, influencing societies both within China and around the world.

Origin of Tea Trees

The origin of tea trees has been a subject of much exploration and research. Various theories suggest different regions as the birthplace of the tea tree. Here are some of the prominent theories:

Southwestern Theory

This theory suggests that the Southwest of China is the birthplace of both the tea tree and tea culture. The theory covers a broad region, making it more widely accepted as correct.

Sichuan Theory

During the Qing Dynasty, historian Gu Yanwu (顾炎武) mentioned in his work Rizhi Lu (日知录) that “After the Qin Dynasty conquered Shu, tea drinking began.” This suggests that tea drinking was already known in the Sichuan (四川) region before the Qin Dynasty expanded into it. Since Sichuan is part of the Southwest, this theory aligns with the Southwestern Theory. While the Sichuan Theory offers a more detailed geographical scope, it carries a higher risk of inaccuracy compared to the Southwestern Theory.

Yunnan Theory

Some believe that the Xishuangbanna (西双版纳) region in Yunnan (云南) is the origin of the tea tree. This area is a botanical paradise, and it is entirely plausible that native species of tea trees exist there. However, this theory has some cultural risks, as tea trees can grow naturally, but tea itself is a product of human cultivation and labor.

Eastern Sichuan and Western Hubei Theory

In his Classic of Tea (茶经), Lu Yu (陆羽) mentions that in the Bashan Gorge (巴山峡川), there were tea trees that were large enough for two people to embrace. This region includes Eastern Sichuan (川东) and Western Hubei (鄂西). While it is possible that these impressive tea trees existed in the area, there is no concrete evidence to confirm that they were used for tea production.

Jiangsu and Zhejiang Theory

A more recent theory proposes that tea culture originated in the Jiangsu (江苏) and Zhejiang (浙江) regions, starting with the Hemudu Culture (河姆渡文化) of the ancient Yue (越) people. These regions are now some of the most developed in China’s tea industry. If historical records can trace tea’s roots back to these regions, it would be an intriguing topic for further study.

The Invention of Tea Drinking

How did humans invent the habit of drinking tea, or more broadly, how did tea originate? This question remains a fundamental issue in the study of tea. For any tea scholar or tea practitioner, if they cannot explain “where tea comes from,” it would be quite insufficient. Currently, there are several theories about the origin of tea:

The Sacrifice Theory

This theory suggests that tea, like some other plants, was initially used as a sacrificial offering. Later, people discovered that it was safe to consume, so it transitioned from a ritual offering to a food item and eventually to a medicinal use, before becoming a beverage.

The Medicinal Theory

This theory posits that tea was originally used as a medicine. The Shennong Bencao Jing (神农本草经) records: “Shennong tasted a hundred herbs, and every day encountered seventy-two poisons, but tea helped him to resolve them.”

The Food Theory

The “Food Theory” suggests that in ancient times, people ate plants and drank water, and “food was considered the most important.” This theory aligns with the natural evolution of human society.

The Synchronization Theory

This theory proposes that the initial use of tea might have been as a chewed food, or perhaps as a roasted food, and gradually evolved into a medicinal drink. After comparing and accumulating these uses, drinking tea became the most popular method.

Among these theories, the Synchronization Theory seems the least useful, as it merely combines the previous theories, forming a “flawless” explanation. Perhaps this explanation is the most appropriate after all.

Today, we can confirm that tea was known and utilized in China early on, and that tea trees were cultivated and tea leaves harvested quite early as well. However, it is likely that tea drinking became widely popular across all social classes in China only after the publication of Lu Yu‘s (陆羽) Cha Jing (茶经) during the Tang Dynasty. A poem from the Song Dynasty mentions, “Since Lu Yu came into the world, people have learned to make spring tea.” This suggests that after tea was invented, it took over a thousand years for it to become well-known among the general population.

In Cha Jing, Lu Yu lists ancient figures in China who were known for their tea knowledge, such as Shennong (神农), Duke of Zhou (周公旦), and Yan Ying (晏婴), indicating that China was the first to discover and utilize tea. Lu Yu refers to the Shennong Shijing (神农食经), which says, “Long-term consumption of tea makes people strong and cheerful.” He also references Er Ya (尔雅), which states: “Tea is bitter,” and Yan Zi Chun Qiu (晏子春秋), mentioning that Yan Ying only ate simple food, such as rice and tea leaves.

Some scholars, however, argue that the works referenced by Lu Yu were written in the Han Dynasty. They also point out that since the Chinese civilization originated in the middle and lower reaches of the Yellow River (黄河), a region that has never produced tea, the story of Shennong tasting a hundred herbs and finding that tea could resolve seventy-two poisons might be legendary rather than historical. These scholars suggest that tea’s development was relatively late in China, leading foreigners to claim that Chinese tea came from India, a theory later disproven when it was found that tea did not exist in ancient India.

Before the Qin (秦) and Han (汉) dynasties, tea drinking was already popular in Sichuan (四川), a region known for its tea. During the Western Han (西汉) period, tea was a specialty of Sichuan, and it was brought to the capital, Chang’an (长安), via tribute. The region of Sichuan and Western Hubei (湖北) was where tea trees are believed to have originated. This area was also where the legendary figures of the Three Sovereigns and Five Emperors (三皇五帝) are said to have lived. Shennong, the leader of the San Miao (三苗) and Jiu Li (九黎) tribes, is said to have lived in this area. Ancient texts like the Records of the Grand Historian (史记) and Shuo Yuan (说苑) mention that the San Miao tribe lived in the mountainous regions of Eastern Sichuan and Western Hubei, which corresponds to the area today known as Shennongjia (神农架). In such a lush environment, where tea still grows abundantly, it is entirely possible that Shennong would have tasted tea leaves.

Tea Books

Lu Yu (陆羽), often called the “Tea Sage,” authored the seminal work Cha Jing (茶经), which is one of the earliest and most important books on tea. Additionally, the Shennong Bencao Jing (神农本草经) also contains information about tea. Today, numerous books on tea continue to be published. If you’re interested, visiting a bookstore might provide many valuable resources on tea.