Splendid Brocade of Zhuang Ethnic Group
Textile in the Zhuang Nationality has a long history. As early as in the Han Dynasty, they could weave Dongbu Cloth, “The thin bring coolness in summer while the thick create warmth in winter”. In the Tang Dynasty, Jiaobu Cloth, Zhuzibu Cloth, Jibeibu Cloth, Banbu Cloth and Sibu Cloth all became the court tributes. In Song Dynasty, Zhuang’s textile got further development and the brocade appeared as a mixture of silk, fiber and cotton. By the Ming and Qing dynasties, Zhuang brocade was woven with colorful floss, and widely used in Zhuang people’s daily life. At that time, “Every county produces Zhuang brocade. Zhuang people like colorful things, and they use five-color gloss to make clothes, and embroider flowers and birds onto them.” “Brocade quilt-cover is indispensable in the dowry, for local people are good at weaving. Brocade is made with five-color gloss, thick and durable, worth 5 liang of tael. Girls begin to learn how to weave before reaching their marriage age.”
Zhuang brocade is woven on a manual loom, consisting of a supportive system, a transmitter, a dividing system and a jacquard system, woven in beautiful designs with natural cotton warp and dyed velour weft. Brocade with delicate designs and bright colors is embedded with fine crafts and high practical value. There are more than ten traditional designs. Most are the common things in life and decorative patterns indicating bliss and happiness. Geometrical patterns are often seen: square, “” pattern, wave, cloud, “ ” pattern, weaving pattern, concentric circle. There are also various flowers, plants, and animals, such as butterflies courting flowers, phoenix among peonies, two dragons playing one pearl, lions playing balls, craps jumping dragon door, etc. In recent years, the new pictures emerge, such as mountains and rivers in Guilin, grain harvest, sunflowers facing the sun, nationality union, and so on. These new pictures reflect Zhuang people’s new life and new morale, and also enrich their traditional culture.
Since 1980s, the production of Zhuang brocade has introduced new technology and the modern Zhuang brocade factories are set up. The variety and quality of Zhuang brocade have been greatly improved. Zhuang brocade is not only loved by Zhuang people but also is exported to Europe, America and Southeast Asia. They have gained honor for our country and also brought economic profits.