Nanzhai Gongfang Ancient Tea Horse Road and GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour from Tengchong to Baihualing

In 2010, I remember it was the first time i went to Baoshan(宝山) when i began my work. Because i was appointed by my department to visit the student’s living buildings in a hope primary school financially supported by a famous brand entity,i went to the Qinghe(清河) primary school in Datianba(大田坝),a town in Changing(昌宁) county under Baoshan(宝山).I put myself into work so quickly without paying any attention to Baoshan(宝山) appearance.

I went to Baoshan(宝山) again in June ,2012. Directly, we went to Xiaopingtian(小平田) county since it was the first time we visited Nanzhai(南寨) public houses. On the Double Fifth Festival, it ceaselessly rained for a whole day, because of my father’s assuring confidence in direction recognition, we began our “hiking” traveling without the help of a tour guide. Some tree branches were snapped by rains.there were no ways uder our feet, let alone in front of our eyes, so we got lost. Then we deadly struggled to find the returning way and finally went back to Baihualing(百花岭) protection station.When it reminds me of the attacks we suffered from leechs, the steepness of mountain roads,i still feel deadly astonishing.

I feeled that there still would be rains on the 2013 national holiday, but i totally strengthened my determination to go for the thip because what we have suffered last time. when my luggage was prepared, we normally driven to Xiaopingba(小平坝) county in Baoshan(宝山) city at 5:50,1st October. Indulged myself in beautiful landscapes alone the whole trip, a delusion of being in the hometown of Dai people in Ruili(瑞丽) suddenly came into my mind.

I enjoyed the fantastic sights while i was driving, it’s what the traveling means to a person.

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-lujiangba

Picture Illustration: Lujiang(潞江) Big Bridge

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-lujiang brige

Picture Illustration: Xiaopingtian(小平田) Basin

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-Xiaopingtian Basin

Picture Illustration: River Beauty

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-nujiang

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-nujiang

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-nujiang

PS:1.The way from Kunming(昆明)to Baoshan(宝山) is quite comfortable, it’s all highway, from Baoshan(宝山) to Xiaopingtian(小平田) Dam is the second-level way. The  airplane is also available to directly reach Baoshan(宝山) city.

2. There is a free-visiting Japanese-defending museum near the Lujiang(潞江) Big Bridge, in which many “histories” left from fighting against Japan are reserved.

In order to live a general impression  on each of you, i insert a route picture of our hiking trip first.

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-map
GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-map

Meanwhile, our route is: Xiaopingtian(小平田)→( driving car)Bauhualing, Gaoligongshan(百花岭高黎贡山) protection station→Qiujiezi(旧街子)→Ertaipo(二台坡)→Dafengbao(大峰包)→Huangzhuhe(黄竹河)→Huang xingshu(黄心树)→the Death Valley(死亡谷)→Huanmichu(换米处)→Qingrenshu(情人树)→Lanbandeng(懒板凳)→Nanzhai public houses(南斋公房)

首先,先为大家介绍一下高黎贡山徒步的历史意义:西汉时期从长安到中亚西亚地区的北方“丝绸之路”,但是对“西南丝绸之路”却知之甚少。其实,“西南丝绸之路”始于公元前四世纪,比北方“丝绸”之路还要早200多年呢。西南丝绸之路也称之为“蜀身(音:yuan)毒道”,起点在四川的成都,终点在印度。在滇西,绵延数百公里,横亘怒江之上的高黎贡山,丝绸古道的分布有北、中、南三条。从百花岭往上经二台坡、大风包、岗房到达顶端的南斋公房,然后从雪山垭口下山至撒马坝、林家铺子、江苴。从地图上看,南斋公房与北斋公房差不多均匀地分布在高黎贡山的南北两端,南斋公房线路较为成熟、安全,成为徒步翻越高黎贡山之首选。

出行TIPS:需要准备的物品有1、60L的双肩背包;2、够吃4顿的干粮。3、一身供跟换的干衣裤袜子(厚);4、电筒、帐篷、睡袋、防虫油、雨衣;5、长筒丝袜(别小看,遇到蚂蝗的时候你就知道这个丝袜多管用)

10月2日早8:00起床,吃了保山饵丝后,9:20从小平田出发,因为贪一时被窝之温暖,起晚了,10:20到达百花岭保护站,找到当地的村名段师傅为我们带路,段师傅把我们的行李绑在他的摩托车上,说在“旧街子”等我们,因为摩托车可以骑到那儿。

图说:沿路塌方的地方。

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour-Down the road

10:30我们正式开始了此次徒步之旅,没有肩上的负重,一开始的山路走的异常轻松,但走到旧街子也是11:45的事儿了。

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

到达旧街子

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

一路默默不语的行走,时而缓坡时而陡峭,终于在1:45左右我们到达了二台坡,感觉已经耗去50%的气力。

向导段师傅说,我们的午饭在大峰包进行,我还心心念念觉得应该一会儿就可以到,熟知当地人口中的一会,我们竟然会如此艰难的走了1小时,平路少而陡坡多,加之还负重着大包,每人都感觉有些吃不消了,前行的速度竟然越来越慢,丝毫没有伊始的轻松愉快气氛。在大峰包草草吃过午饭,又开始继续行走。因为从来没有好好了解过该线路,所以心里也没个底儿,只知道闷着头的爬山、行走。

图说:大峰包热气腾腾的方便米饭

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

大概15:45在到达黄竹河的时候,眼前的美景已经无法驱散满身疲惫,拖着沉重的双腿,听着流水冲击着石头的声响,汗水、雨水糊了眼睛,稍作休息,向导开始催促我们要尽快赶路,因为大概还有1/3的持续登山之路在等待着我们。

图说:黄竹河挂历般美景

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

雨越来越大,向导一个劲儿的往前走,不一会儿,我们看到向导折回来,他对我们说:你们走的太慢了,我得回去了,不然我的手电筒没有电,我下山太危险了。就这样,男童鞋们肩负起了多出来的一个食品包。说实话,经历过2次雨崩与独龙江的历练,我清楚的知道徒步或者登山需要的体力、毅力各半,所以,连续7小时从海拔700到3000的死亡谷时,要继续再往上走的话只能凭借毅力了。
图说:古道——死亡谷

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

死亡谷名称有些渗人,但当时上山时早已顾不得这些,走过死亡谷,天色已然擦黑,更令人绝望的是开始下起了冰雹,17:30分,前面的人不见踪影,后面的人还未跟上,就这样,一个人,走10分钟,休息2分钟,不管青苔有多湿滑,席地而坐似乎成为习惯。此时此刻,同伴的鼓励成为坚持下去的动力,就这样一行4人,无法搀扶,任何一步一个台阶都只能依靠自己与手中的登山杖,此时此刻,让我内心不安的是明天的下山之路,俗话上山容易下山难,此般陡峻的山路、雨水渗透的石台,畏难的情绪无限高涨中。

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

18:45分,我们终于登上高黎贡山南斋公房,但看到眼前这破败不堪的小房子,我的眼泪真心要夺眶而出了,这怎么可能住人?在阵阵失落之余,介绍一下南斋公房:南斋公房位于高黎贡山,海拔大约3300米,曾因一位一心向佛的志愿者来到这里行善积德,为过往商客提供食宿而得名。在历史上北斋公房、南斋公房和红木树道曾是南方古丝绸之路保山至腾冲三条古道。顾不上内心的酸楚,好在同伴(我妈)平时唧唧歪歪的,这个时候,她竟然能用湿透的柴火笼起一堆让我此生难忘的温暖,换上厚实干燥的衣服,把浸湿的鞋袜拿到火堆一旁烤干,感觉已经没有站起来再走一步的勇气,但还需要搭好帐篷,好早些休息。上山前高黎贡山百花岭保护站的负责人提醒我们不要在公房的房檐处搭建帐篷,因为年久失修,屋顶的瓦片都在脱落,尤其是房檐处,更是得小心。走进南斋公房,一共有3个房间,中间供着一尊山神(应该是),所以我们就分散开,住在两边。

PS:南斋公房再往上走5分钟,就有一眼井水,很隐蔽,有个石板遮住半边。
图说:南斋公房烧火房

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

南斋公房

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

夜朦胧,房朦胧

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

天色太黑,看不清井水是否清澈,打水回来,拿出气炉子,方便面在这个时候是何等的美味,喝上一口那热腾腾的面汤,满足感已降至此,更多人的欲望都是温饱问题解决之后才产生的,所以,此刻我们的欲望来自温饱。山上的天气变化如此之快让等待摄影的发烧友望尘莫及,摩拳擦掌打算拍摄的星轨也只能看看而已,因为漫天星空也许一眨眼就乌云密布。

夜间温度降至8°,钻进睡袋,手脚同样冰凉,但终究抵挡不住阵阵袭来的困意,就这样,一天的登山徒步结束了,听着各种山间的诡异声响,我浅浅的入睡了。

PS:防潮垫是必须带的,就算睡在帐篷里,因为没有水泥地,第二天一早帐篷里面还是被水汽浸湿了。

图说:第一次感受到繁星点点的星空

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

图说:第一次发觉火是如此重要

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

10月3日一早7:30分,本想再躺一会,但实在受不了那阴冷凹凸的地面,索性翻身坐起。远处的云,感觉绵密富有弹性,似乎伸手可及,但有那么遥远。草草吃了点早点,收拾好背囊,我们开始返回。

图说:清晨的高黎贡山

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour
GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

绵密细腻的云朵触手可及

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

下山要比上山轻松一些,除了那湿滑的石台阶,总免不了摔上几跤,但很多东西习惯就好。天气还是时好时坏,懒得穿脱雨衣,直接披上还干脆些。下到黄竹河也是下午1:00左右了,我们选择在这儿吃点东西,继续下山,卸下背包,坐在路边,隐约看到鞋子上有些什么东西在动,不好,再次遭遇旱蚂蝗的袭击,用登山杖把它们从鞋上弄下来花费好大功夫,午饭吃的更是迅速,蚂蝗好似给了我无限动力,我越走越快,为的仅仅是躲避它们。从最初的惧怕到之后用叶子拿下爬到裤子上的蚂蝗,我开始佩服自己的胆量,人都是被逼出来这句话形容空手斗蚂蝗的我再合适不过了。

图说:下山的路泥泞湿滑

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

图说:我爹我妈

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

6:00我们回到百花岭保护站,负责人令师傅热情的给我们倒水,一杯热水,暖了手也暖了人与人的交流,令师傅介绍了关于高黎贡山的很多,下山后我才知道,原来当时国军把侵华日军围困在南斋公房时,日军因为生活没有了供给,只能吃人,据一些老人们说,当时国军攻下南斋公房时,看到房梁上挂着的全是干巴,因为潮湿的气候,肉无法保存太久,只能做成干巴,而那些尸体身上都有明显被割下肉的痕迹,这也就是为何围困时有300日军,最后只找到了百八十人的真相。听罢,后背阵阵发凉,心跳加速,心中大叹,这还好是下山后得知的。战争就是这么残酷,更多的历史真相让人无法接受,根据之后的参与滇西战争的回忆录里日本军官们都决口不提此事,这本就是有违人伦之行,他们又何尝愿意想起?但终归是自己种的因果,如果没有战争也就没有这些痛苦,和平来的如此不易,双手合十,不论是侵略者还是保卫者,都有自己的那些无可奈何吧!

PS:滇西之战中,为了夺回高黎贡山这条保山到腾冲的交通要道,保山与腾冲的人民都为国军背干粮送到山上,因为地势险要,大米沉而难携带,当地不仅是男人做物资供给,就连女人们也一同山上,路上就吃生大米,几千人去了,去的时候死了300人,回来的时候也死了300多人,就这样,终将以7:1的比例,夺回了蜀身毒道,保护了昆明以及更多城市的安全。

站在公路上,看着我们曾经到达的山顶。

GaoliGongshan Mountain Hiking Tour

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